Diamond Ring Styles

Diamond ring styles have evolved significantly over the past century, influenced by changing design trends, gemstone cutting technology and consumer preferences. Today, South African shoppers can choose from a wide range of diamond ring designs, from classic solitaires to contemporary halo and trilogy settings, in metals such as platinum, yellow, white and rose gold.

South Africa remains closely associated with diamonds due to its mining history. The discovery of diamonds near Kimberley in the late 19th century led to the rapid growth of the industry and to the founding of major mining companies such as De Beers, as documented by the Kimberley visitor information from the Northern Cape tourism authorities (Northern Cape Tourism – Kimberley history). This legacy continues to shape local expertise in cutting, grading and setting diamonds into engagement and wedding rings.

Classic solitaire diamond ring styles

The solitaire remains one of the most popular diamond ring styles worldwide. A solitaire ring typically features a single central diamond in a plain band, designed to emphasise the stone itself. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) notes that solitaire engagement rings are often chosen to showcase a well-cut diamond and that the most common settings for solitaires include prong (claw) and bezel mounts (GIA – Engagement Ring Settings Guide).

Prong settings use metal claws to secure the diamond while allowing maximum light to enter the stone. GIA explains that four- or six-prong settings are common for round brilliant solitaires and that this style can make the diamond appear more prominent because more of the stone is visible (GIA – Engagement Ring Settings Guide). In contrast, bezel settings surround the diamond with a continuous rim of metal, giving a sleek, modern look and providing more protection for the stone, which suits people with active lifestyles.

Many South African jewellers offer solitaire rings in different metal colours. For instance, the South African Jewellers Association points out that yellow gold, white gold and platinum are widely used for diamond engagement rings in the country, with 18K gold and platinum particularly favoured for durability and colour stability (Jewellery Council of South Africa – Metals in Jewellery).

Halo and double-halo diamond ring styles

Halo settings surround a central diamond with a border of smaller diamonds, creating additional sparkle and the impression of a larger centre stone. GIA describes the halo style as a design in which “a circle (or more) of smaller accent diamonds” frames the centre diamond, and notes that this can enhance visual impact while using a smaller main stone compared with a solitaire of similar finger coverage (GIA – Engagement Ring Settings Guide).

The same GIA guidance explains that double-halo settings add a second circle of diamonds around the centre stone, increasing brilliance and finger coverage even further. These styles are often combined with pavé bands, in which small diamonds are set closely together along the ring shank for added sparkle (GIA – Engagement Ring Settings Guide).

South African bridal jewellery collections reflect this global trend towards halo designs. Major South African retailers such as American Swiss illustrate a variety of halo and double-halo engagement rings with round, cushion and oval centre stones, often in white gold and rose gold settings (American Swiss – Engagement Rings). These halo designs are popular for those wanting a diamond ring style that maximises brilliance and presence on the hand.

Trilogy and multi-stone diamond ring styles

Three-stone (trilogy) rings feature a row of three diamonds across the top of the band. GIA notes that three-stone engagement rings are often chosen for their symbolic meaning – traditionally interpreted as representing the past, present and future of a relationship (GIA – Engagement Ring Settings Guide). In many designs, the centre stone is slightly larger, flanked by two smaller side stones, though some rings use three stones of equal size.

Beyond trilogy rings, some contemporary diamond ring styles use multiple stones arranged in clusters. The Jewellery Council of South Africa explains that cluster settings group multiple smaller diamonds together in a pattern to create the illusion of a larger composite stone or to form floral or geometric shapes (Jewellery Council of South Africa – Types of Settings). This can be a cost-effective way to achieve a bold look, since a cluster of smaller diamonds is often less expensive than a single diamond of equivalent total carat weight.

Vintage-inspired and art deco diamond ring styles

Vintage and vintage-inspired diamond ring styles draw on design periods such as Edwardian, Art Deco and mid‑20th‑century jewellery. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London notes that early 20th‑century diamond rings frequently showcased intricate metalwork, milgrain edges (tiny metal beads along the borders) and geometric arrangements of diamonds and coloured stones, especially during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s (V&A Museum – Jewellery 1900–1945).

These historical design features influence many modern “vintage-style” engagement rings. GIA points out that Art Deco–inspired rings often feature step‑cut diamonds (such as emerald cuts), baguette side stones and strong geometric patterns, sometimes combined with platinum or white gold to accentuate clean lines and contrast (GIA – Art Deco Jewellery Overview). Milgrain detailing and hand engraving, also characteristic of early 20th‑century rings, are still used today to give new rings an antique feel.

In South Africa, specialist jewellers and custom designers frequently reproduce these motifs for clients seeking unique diamond ring styles with a historical aesthetic. The Jewellery Council of South Africa notes that hand-crafted settings and detailed metalwork remain an important part of the country’s fine jewellery trade (Jewellery Council of South Africa – Jewellery Manufacturing).

Popular diamond cuts used in ring styles

The choice of diamond cut has a major impact on the appearance of any ring style. The round brilliant cut remains the most popular shape for engagement rings internationally. GIA explains that the modern round brilliant is specifically engineered to maximise light performance, with 57 or 58 facets arranged to optimise brightness, fire and scintillation (GIA – Diamond Cuts Guide). Because of this, round brilliants are often used in solitaires, halos and pavé bands.

Other commonly used shapes include:

Princess cut – A square brilliant cut that offers a contemporary look with strong sparkle. GIA notes that princess cuts fit well in modern, angular settings and are often chosen for channel-set bands and contemporary solitaires (GIA – Diamond Shape Guide).
Oval cut – An elongated brilliant shape that can make the finger appear slimmer. GIA’s shape guide indicates that oval diamonds work particularly well in solitaire and halo designs, and can appear larger than round stones of the same carat weight due to their length (GIA – Diamond Shape Guide).
Emerald cut – A rectangular step-cut diamond with large, open facets. According to GIA, emerald cuts emphasise clarity and elegance rather than intense sparkle, and are often set in minimalist, vintage or Art Deco–inspired designs (GIA – Diamond Shape Guide).
Cushion cut – A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and larger facets. GIA notes that cushion cuts are common in both vintage-style and contemporary halo rings, offering a softer outline than princess cuts (GIA – Diamond Shape Guide).

Common ring setting types used across diamond ring styles

Different diamond ring styles often incorporate one or more of a small number of classic setting types. The Jewellery Council of South Africa lists several of the most frequently used settings:

Prong (claw) setting – Metal claws hold the diamond at several points, exposing much of the stone and allowing maximum light entry. This is standard in many solitaire and halo designs.
Bezel setting – A continuous rim of metal surrounds the diamond’s girdle, protecting the edges and creating a modern, streamlined look.
Channel setting – A row of diamonds is held between two strips of metal, commonly used for side stones on engagement rings and for wedding bands.
Pavé setting – Numerous small diamonds are set closely together with minimal visible metal, creating a “paved” surface of sparkle across the band (Jewellery Council of South Africa – Types of Settings).

These setting styles are combined in many modern ring designs. For example, a popular approach is to use prongs for the centre stone, with pavé diamonds along the band, or to combine a bezel-set centre diamond with channel-set side stones for a more contemporary look.

Metals used in South African diamond ring styles

The metal chosen for a ring influences both style and durability. The Jewellery Council of South Africa explains that:

Platinum is dense, naturally white, and highly durable, making it well suited to securing diamonds in fine claws and pavé work.
White gold (typically 14K or 18K) offers a white appearance created by alloying gold with white metals and often plating with rhodium to enhance brightness.
Yellow gold remains a classic choice for traditional solitaire and vintage-inspired rings.
Rose gold, alloyed with copper, has become a fashionable choice for contemporary halo and solitaire designs, especially when paired with white diamonds (Jewellery Council of South Africa – Metals in Jewellery).

These metal options allow South African buyers to tailor diamond ring styles to personal taste, skin tone and existing jewellery collections.

Diamond quality in ring styles: the 4Cs

Regardless of style, the appearance and value of a diamond ring depend heavily on the quality of the diamonds used. GIA established the widely adopted 4Cs of diamond quality: colour, clarity, cut and carat weight. Its guidance explains:

Cut has the greatest effect on sparkle and is critical in styles like solitaires and halos where the centre diamond is prominent.
Colour is graded from D (colourless) to Z (light colour); colourless or near-colourless grades are often chosen for engagement rings.
Clarity measures the presence of internal and external characteristics (inclusions and blemishes). Rings with step-cut stones such as emerald cuts often require higher clarity because inclusions are more visible.
Carat weight affects the perceived size of the diamond; designs like halo rings can make smaller carat weights appear larger on the finger (GIA – 4Cs of Diamond Quality).

In South Africa, many reputable jewellers supply diamonds with grading reports from laboratories such as GIA or other recognised entities, providing objective details about the 4Cs.

Choosing between different diamond ring styles

When comparing diamond ring styles, GIA recommends considering lifestyle, design preferences and long-term wearability. For example, bezel settings and low‑profile halo designs may be better suited to people with hands-on jobs, while high‑set solitaires can emphasise the diamond but may catch more easily on clothing (GIA – Engagement Ring Settings Guide).

The Jewellery Council of South Africa advises buyers to work with established jewellers and to ask about metal purity, diamond certification and after‑sales services such as resizing and cleaning (Jewellery Council of South Africa – Consumer Information). This guidance applies to all diamond ring styles, from classic solitaires to intricate vintage‑style designs.

From simple solitaire bands to ornate halo, trilogy and vintage-inspired creations, diamond ring styles today reflect both long-standing jewellery traditions and modern design innovations. South Africa’s historical and ongoing involvement in the diamond industry, as documented in regional histories such as the Northern Cape’s account of Kimberley’s diamond fields (Northern Cape Tourism – Kimberley history), underpins a strong local market for finely crafted diamond rings in a wide array of styles, metals and settings.